Monday, December 26, 2016

MOD: Digitech JamMan Stereo Looper

"Soft-Click" Footswitch Modification for Digitech JamMan Stereo Looper




This was a modification project that I've worked on recently.  The looper was working fine but the owner was not satisfied that the footswitches had a "click" as it was being stomped.  This action is very common in many stomp-boxes where you feel and hear the switching occur as you press it.  Typically, the "click" is associated with latching type of switches.  However, some momentary switches also has this "click" action and this looper came with them.  Here is a close up of the original footswitch.




The owner's problem was that the "click" made the preciseness of looping difficult.  The "click" would present itself as an obstacle creating physical latency when activating the switch.  The result was slightly inaccurate, out of sync loops.  The request was to get "soft-click" foot-switches installed which would eliminate the click and achieve more precise results for live use.

When I opened up the unit and saw the solder joints of the footswitch, I saw 6 joints and assumed it was a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch.  I thought this project could get slightly more challenging because soft-click switches are SPST (Single Pole Single Throw).  If all 6 terminals were fully utilized to communicate with the main board, my immediate thought was to implement a digital interface sending multiple pulsed signals to eradicate the lack of terminals that SPST had.  Then upon closer inspection, I noticed that the switches were actually SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) as you can see on the photo.




Knowing that it was SPDT made everything simpler.  After checking all the relevant connection on the PCB, I came to discover that the third terminal was not being utilized at all.  The first two terminals were connected until the switch was pressed; breaking a connection whenever the switch was being pressed.  That meant the SPDT switch was used just like a SPST switch with Normally-Closed operation.  This was true for all 4 of the footswitches on this device. So after installing some high quality SPST Normally-Closed momentary switches, this unit responded just like the owner wanted.  Modification Complete!




So why would Digitech use SPDT switches, when they could use SPST?  My guess is that it's probably cheaper to get or that they already had a big stock of SPDT and needed to use them.  Because there were enough holes on the PCB for DPDT switches, if they would ever run out of SPDTs, I'm sure they would substitute with DPDTs.  Whatever the reasons are, I'm glad I was able to help this artist create music without the "clicks"!



7 comments:

  1. Hi there, I've taken my Jamman Stereo apart for the same reason, & came to the exact same conclusions.
    Did you manage to find SPST switches to directly replace the originals I wonder? The only ones I've found so far are not PCB mount, & have a bottom part like an ordinary toggle switch with solder lugs for wires.

    Thanks,
    Dave

    PS I'm going to add a foot activated 'store' switch also so I can save and then re allocate loops to different memory slots whilst playing live.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No, I've used some like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPST-Momentary-Foot-Switch-Normally-Closed-for-Guitar-Pedals-/252311833646?rmvSB=true

      FYI, I changed out all 4 switches to soft-click. After using it for awhile, the owner wanted to go back to the old switches for LOOP Up & Down switches because that gave more reliable results. The Record and Tap switches are still soft-click.

      I hope that helps!

      Delete
  2. How did you remove the original switches? I used to use the jamman mono annd i modded that to use soft touch switches; desoldering was fine but i had to cut part of the enclosure to fit the new switches.
    I recently upgraded to the Jamman Stereo, and i opened it up lastnight to attempt installing soft touch switches. It was hard to see if the solder was melting or not with my desoldering iron, i didnt want to press my luck so i gave up. I suppose one could cut the three legs of the old switches with a thin saw or dremel tool, then solder the new switches to those stumps, but then i’d be destroying the old switches... which mdoesn’t really matter if im never going to re-install them... Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I just desoldered the connections using a pump that sucks up the melted solder (I forget the exact term for this little device). I do recommend keeping the original LOOP Up & Down switches and only replace Record & Tap switches.

      Delete
  3. Did you do anything to secure that part of the circuitboard to the new switches or just a tighter wire? Which of the three lugs are used for the two on the new switch? I suppose i can test this with alligator clips but if you know off hand thatd be cool. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sorry, I don't remember which lugs. As far as securing the board, I used some heavy duty double-sided wall tape between the new footswitches and the board. I think I also glued some styrofoam on the bottom plate to have a support underneath the board.

      Delete
  4. I’m debating just carefully cutting the original switches with a thin saw or small dremel tool, and soldering to those nubs (if possible) rather than desoldering anything. I guess I wouldn’t care about destroying those switches to make installing new switches easier, right? What you think? I def am used to the soft touch switch for looping.

    ReplyDelete

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